Here I am, sittin on my lil porch, listen’n to helo’s and a dog scarfing away dinner. The helo is a lifeline helo heading to some hospital other than our local one which can’t support any real emergencies. (new normal?) I spent most of today building a PVC bow with wooden siyahs and making a real bow string for it, continuous loop style. I probably could have saved some money by buying dacron B50 but what I found was Spiderwire braided fishing line. Rated at 65# breaking strength, its comparable to the dacron, especially since I have have to use more loops to get the string thickness right. (Pics to follow monologue)
List of materials
Schd 80 PVC pipe 10′ (used 44″) $13.99
Spiderwire 65# 125yds (used apx 30yds for a 48″ string)$12(same string at the bow shop would cost me $15)
Siyahs- From my wood pile $0
String silencers- Original cost was $7 for the 250yd of wool yarn No friggin idea how much is left but there are silencers on alll my bows now and i still have ooddles of yarn remainhing.
The grip is covered in hemp twine and held in place with Titebond III for waterproofing and those are both from my preps so I can’t include a cost as I have no idea how much I paid then. Hemp is cheap, though titebond is not but what you can do with them is pretty much like having a swiss army knife for repairs and other things. (note: the bow is unstrung in the pic, Being a deflex, the limbs point away from the shooter when unstrung. When strung, the bow takes on the classic “cupid” bow shape)
and that gets me into the knife aspect. That knife in the pic is a Mora. China turned me onto these almost three years ago (gah! Time sure does fly by!) These things are hair poppin sharp from the factory, inexpensive as hell and just damned useful. I know there are guys out there that have to have the latest and greatest pig sticker, but I have to say, from a homestead view, those pig stickers are boat anchors. May be good in hand to hand knife fight, but try and use one for carving out a siyah, or cleaning a fish, or gutting a deer, castrating a hog, carving a toothpick, or cleaning your nails. Hah! Never gonna happen.
I do modify my Mora’s just a tad but for the most part, they are the same as the day I bought them. (I have 4 now since I found a local supplier. Cheaper to buy from them than order on line and pay shipping.) (FYI, I prefer the Carbon Steel blades, but have one of the stainless. I can honestly say, I have never had a stainless blade hold an edge the way this one does. Get what you can afford or find, You won’t be dissappointed.) The mods are as follows. I use heat to reshape the top of the plastic sheath that they come in. I fold it back on itself then fold it along the main body where the knife resides. That way I can slip my belt through there and have a higher riding knife. I like the handle of the knife to be above my belt. (its a personal preference, you may like theway they come as is.) The other mod is to use a stone on the back edge of the blade to make it like a scraper. All you have to do is grind the rough back smooth and at 90 degrees to the sides of the blade. It makes smoothing up what you have carved on so much nicer and keeps you from using the sharp edge for that. I will say that these blades give regular sharpening stones, fits. I use diamond and ceramics to keep the edges and I have a strop for the final touch. Worksharp makes a really nice unit with two diamond plates (rough and fine) with a couple of ceramic rods and a leather strop on the sides. There is also a broadhead wrench built into the body underneath the plates that comes in handy for me. I think I paid $35 for mine, Look around at the shooting/hunting stores, You may find one. Small enough to slip in jacket pocket and good enough for most all sharpening needs short of chainsaws. (different animal, different needs)
The reason I mention the mods I make to my Mora’s is in the last pic of the siyahs. The one on the right was cut out by saw, then shaped with a bench sander. The one on the left was carved by hand (my hand) and scraped smooth using the backside of the blade.(the nock points were carved in both using the mora, sharp means you can cut across grain easily. ) I chose to carve it as I feel I have more control of the blade than I do of the machines. And I wanted this thing “right” the first time. (The wood is maple from my woodpile, I split a chunk to use for this.) I could never have done this using my Kabar and its sharp enough, just too damned big for detail, (unless you are doing exploratory surgery on a bad guy) Yup, For everyday use, the Mora is the way to go, and easily able to slipped into a budget. To be honest, I would rather buy 10 Mora’s and save some money, than throw down for some of the Tacticool stuff I see for sale.
Ok, question for ya all. I last posted a little bit of fiction trying to teach something. I got a few responses, all good, but I was wondering if maybe, just maybe, I should keep writing little works like that and try to show different ways of being prepared? I have some ideas floating around in the space where my grey matter should reside, and they want out (and my brain wants back in :-P ) But I don’t want just the usual suspects to partake. You need to spread the links around. I don’t want to sound narcisistic, but if I am going to play with this, I need feedback, and from more than just friends. (I know my stats are down, and that doesn’t really bother me as I am not posting like I was 2 or 3 years ago. And to be honest, I have tossed near 100% of my writings of late because I am just repeating myself in them. It does little good to point out the falacies, when the persons that need to see them won’t read or listen. And we in the choir already know the tune.) Ok, enough of the Bleg, on to the pics (lets see what I can get uploaded this round.)