Just a short note to pass along something that I found NOT to do when making a PVC bow. DO NOT use superglue of any sort to attach anything to the bow. I made two bows out of schd 80 pipe (and that size irrelevant to the point) and made shelfs to shoot off and attached them using superglue then wrapping with either Jute cord, or hemp cord.
Both snapped after about 2 weeks of use. (I shoot my bows in for those that are buying them. If its gonna blowup, I want it to happen inmy hands, not thiers) The snap was so0 clean, I could see where the glue began and ended and each one, the snap occurred at the terminator of the glue. On the other side of the joint, the break tended to jagged. I don’t know the chemical changee made, but somehow, the glue turned the PVC brittle like glass. I have since made two more and each is performing just as well, and there is no signs of weakness at the shelf and I used a simple non-volatile glue (Elmers Probond) to seat them, using the wrap to reinforce the point. Three weeks of use (not daily, but alternate days. I shoot at stumps while walking the dogs), no weird noises, no creaking (the sign I heard both times on the ones that snapped) and even with the temps being up, no significant loss of performance. (I unstring them between use, so they don’t ‘set’ in the flexxed position.) Both bows are ready for their owners and will be delivered this week.
That said, the bowstings are just flat rockin! No issues, no stretching, and the teflon coated serving material I have been using is pretty cool too. I haven’t needed to use a glove for some time (other than my 65# bow. That one eats fingers if not protected) thanks to that coating. It also makes it easier to adjust nock points for different types of arrows. I use ones with a 400 spine for stump shooting (100grn point) and 340 spine for broadheads (160grn point) and there is a 1/4″ difference in nock point to keep them happy. With the teflon, I just use a thumb nail to pull a section higher or lower, then slip the rest along the same way. test fire and watch the arrow, if it wags, adjust a bit more. it stays put at all other times so shot consistency is all on me; as it should be. ((For those interested, I am using Mustad Classic Braided fishing line for the main string at 65# test (.016″ dia) I use 22 strands for most strings (11 wraps on the jig). For the serving material, I am using teflon coated SpiderWire, also 65# test but slightly larger diameter. I made my serving tool out of an old solder spool, a piece of rubber tubing and 3″ machine screw with a butterfly nut. Tha actual frame is a piece of PVC cut in half, heated and flattened then bent to accept the spool. Small hole drilled in the flat for the string, and tension is adjusted by tightening the butterfly nut, compressing the rubber tubing against the spool walls. Cost me nothing but time, and works better than the one my cousin bought for $20. The string jig is an old 2×4 with a series of 1/4″ holes drilled at 1″ intervals and labeled. The string points are 6″ x1/4″ steel rod, that I chucked into a drill to file the string followers into. Nock points are just a section of Hemp twine (the small stuff) double wrapped in place, then a dab of pine resin to hold the knot. No need to be complicated, or to spend boatloads of money on this hobby, just be as inventive as our ancestors were when they came up with a new way to throw sticks at animals. (and be willing to have stuff break on you. each failure is a chance to learn a better way. Something to be said in failure, and its something many kids today, need to learn.)
Now, some of you may have recieved an email of a post that you can’t see on my site. Ignore it, I was just venting a spleen and the only way to delete the mess was to post it first. The wordpress app is kinda goofy on that note. “t’won’t happen again.